Oregon
Washington border
to California border 500 miles
Olallie
Lake to Cascade Summit
29th
July Olallie Lake
Olallie Lake is a pleasant spot with views out to Mt Jefferson and
a wooden ranger station and small shop. We picked up our resupply
package and eat as much snack food from the shop as we could pack
in.
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Mt Jefferson from Olallie Lake
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Head Lake near Olallie
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| Sunset
behind Olallie Lake |
Next
day we head out towards Mt Jefferson through the forest in intermittent
cloud. At Scout Lake we manage another swim, had lunch and took in
the views over flower meadows up to the heights of Mt Jefferson. The
way forward was to be quite similar for the next few hundred miles
with forested undulating terrain then rising to traverse singular
volcanic peaks.
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Mt Jefferson
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Woodstock
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Our
immediate trail however took us up to a mist shrouded Shale
Lake where we camped after 23.6 miles. Martina certainly was going
strongly again! We met up with fellow thru hiker Woodstock
here and hiked with him past Three Fingered Jack - a mountain which
we didn't see due to thick mist all day. In retrospect the mist was
a bit of a blessing as it made for cool hiking temperatures and we
were much less physically fatigued than when hiking in the sun.
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The
sun was soon out again though as we hiked past Mt Washington
into a weird landscape of solidified lava. We stopped to stroll
up to the top of Bell Knap crater for the views south to the
Three Sisters our next destination. These three peaks rose
up as snowy cones in a north-south orientation above the dark
red lava based rock and intermittent forest.
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Martina on old lava with Mt Washington behind
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We
crossed Hw242 just past here in the burning heat of late afternoon
at McKenzie Pass. We had both long since neglected to use any sun
block cream and the sun's rays didn't really seem to have any effect
on us even though we were exposed all day. We put it down to quickly
developing a coating of sweat, dirt, grime and dust which was as effective
a sun barrier as any! Our camp that evening was at lovely South Matthieu
Lake on the north slopes of North Sister mountain which was planned
to provide us with another superb soothing evening swim.
2nd
August After a refreshing but cold pre breakfast swim we were
hiking by 7am up into the great arena of old volcanic activity around
North Sister. Surrounded by lovely lush green meadows and purple lupines
it made for a scenic days walk as we skirted the heights of the snow
covered Three Sisters. The scenery was fitting somehow as I had calculated
that we had now hiked 1,330 miles - and that was halfway! We
were jubilant that we had made it so far but slightly melancholy as
well that we had seen so much, had so many things happen and yet it
was only half of the journey. Could we survive the same distance again
(?)- that was the question going through our minds as we hiked south
and onwards.
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Brian at our halfway point
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Obsidian rock outcrop
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Later
that day we came upon a large outcrop of obsidian rock- obsidian is
volcanic glass that has solidified extremely quickly after volcanic
eruption. It would have been useful to locals to make arrow tips and
blades and it was unusual to see such a large exposure as this.
In
the evening we reached Mirror Lake for a cooling swim then hiked another
mile uphill to find a clearing with open views back to the Three Sisters
to pitch our tent. Our plan the next day was to deviate from the PCT
by about 2 miles down to a small shop at the Elk Lake Resort
to pick up some fresh (or just different!) food. We made the 5 miles
hiking by 9.30am to find two other PCT hikers- Sideshow and
Mensa. Sideshow is a bit of a character as he is hiking with
an acoustic guitar! - albeit a 'backpacking' cut down guitar. Also
there were the 'A team'- two hikers and their hiking dogs. We had
a good breakfast and stacked up on chocolate but found the owner a
bit grumpy so we moved on fairly quickly.
Our
days were now beginning to develop a planned structure here in lake
dotted central Oregon. We would scour the maps at camp in the
evening
and work out which lakes we could stop at along the way for lunch,
dinner and camp to maximise our swims that day. So it was that we
had lunch at Dumbbell Lake- which fulfilled all our requirements;
a cool, deep, secluded, clear water lake and it even had a rock promontory
which we could use as a diving board- perfect! That evening it was
Stormy Lake which, rather unusually for the journey, had other campers
ensconced- a scout group. I was very weak that evening and it turned
out to be simple dehydration which was easily solved by just keeping
drinking.
We
met Sideshow again at a shady
spot beside
Charlton Lake and stopped to hear him play 'Wish You Were
Here' by Pink Floyd. It was tempting just to stay there all day but
we knew we were 14 miles to our next resupply stop at Cascade Summit
and wanted to progress so that we could hike there easily tomorrow.
Our
next day involved an easy forested descent down to Highway 58
and Willamette Pass then 1.5 miles down a side road to Cascade Summit
resort where we intended to laze about and eat for the rest of the
day!
Next Cascade Summit on
to Crater Lake Oregon